In the stillness of Switzerland's hidden valley, I find solace in the crunch of snow underfoot. The path unwinds before me like a serpent, climbing skyward through forests of larch and pine, their branches etched against the pale blue sky. As I look back, the landscape unfolds like a canvas – crags, peaks, and valleys stretching out to infinity.
I've found myself in the Lower Engadine, thanks to Kaspar's tip, where crowds are few and far between. This winter wonderland beckons with its slow tourism charm, small family-run hotels, guided walks, and artisanal food producers. It's a place where Swiss families come to reconnect with nature, away from the bustle of city life.
My journey begins in Scuol, the largest village in the valley, accessible via two trains from Zurich. This winter walker's paradise offers over 160 kilometers of trails, carefully maintained by an invisible army of laborers who spread sawdust on icy tracks and clear paths with snow ploughs.
As I set out, the silence is a balm to my soul – a stillness that clears my mind like no other landscape. The whiteness of the snow absorbs all distractions, leaving me calm and collected. Every sound becomes acute: the flutter of snowflakes, the chirping of birds, and the crunch of my own footsteps.
My route takes me through villages with treasures to discover – tiny, painted churches, flamboyantly decorated houses, and even a French patisserie in Guarda. The people, too, are a delight – farmers, shepherds, cheese-makers, and artists drawn by the valley's extraordinary beauty.
I follow well-marked trails, each day's walk winding through forests, past waterfalls, and to snow-capped pinnacles where bearded vultures soar. The landscape is both rugged and beautiful, a symphony of stone, ice, and green.
On one overcast day, I take the Bernina Express up to frozen Lago Bianco – a winter wonderland that makes my eyes ache with delight. There's so much to experience: guided snow-shoeing tours, tobogganing trips, visits to knife-making workshops, cheese farms, and local breweries.
Accommodation is an intimate affair in Scuol – no hotel chains here. Instead, I find a youth hostel with private bathrooms (from £112), family-run guest houses, and delicious meals on the sunlit terrace of Hotel Arnica. For me, this "slow" town offers the perfect antidote to the haste of city life.
As I rest weary limbs in Scuol's tranquil streets, I'm reminded that sometimes, the best experiences lie off the beaten path – a place where royalty and celebrities have once dwelled, but now it's me, or anyone else seeking a peaceful retreat from the wintry wonderland of the Engadine.
I've found myself in the Lower Engadine, thanks to Kaspar's tip, where crowds are few and far between. This winter wonderland beckons with its slow tourism charm, small family-run hotels, guided walks, and artisanal food producers. It's a place where Swiss families come to reconnect with nature, away from the bustle of city life.
My journey begins in Scuol, the largest village in the valley, accessible via two trains from Zurich. This winter walker's paradise offers over 160 kilometers of trails, carefully maintained by an invisible army of laborers who spread sawdust on icy tracks and clear paths with snow ploughs.
As I set out, the silence is a balm to my soul – a stillness that clears my mind like no other landscape. The whiteness of the snow absorbs all distractions, leaving me calm and collected. Every sound becomes acute: the flutter of snowflakes, the chirping of birds, and the crunch of my own footsteps.
My route takes me through villages with treasures to discover – tiny, painted churches, flamboyantly decorated houses, and even a French patisserie in Guarda. The people, too, are a delight – farmers, shepherds, cheese-makers, and artists drawn by the valley's extraordinary beauty.
I follow well-marked trails, each day's walk winding through forests, past waterfalls, and to snow-capped pinnacles where bearded vultures soar. The landscape is both rugged and beautiful, a symphony of stone, ice, and green.
On one overcast day, I take the Bernina Express up to frozen Lago Bianco – a winter wonderland that makes my eyes ache with delight. There's so much to experience: guided snow-shoeing tours, tobogganing trips, visits to knife-making workshops, cheese farms, and local breweries.
Accommodation is an intimate affair in Scuol – no hotel chains here. Instead, I find a youth hostel with private bathrooms (from £112), family-run guest houses, and delicious meals on the sunlit terrace of Hotel Arnica. For me, this "slow" town offers the perfect antidote to the haste of city life.
As I rest weary limbs in Scuol's tranquil streets, I'm reminded that sometimes, the best experiences lie off the beaten path – a place where royalty and celebrities have once dwelled, but now it's me, or anyone else seeking a peaceful retreat from the wintry wonderland of the Engadine.